In Newport, dining out has been a full-contact sport since the Gilded Age—because what else would you expect in a place where “summer” is a verb? The seasonal residents who descend upon this Aquidneck Island resort town do so with a desire to see and be seen. While the dress code today is less elaborate than it was in the late 1800s, dining institutions still enforce a certain standard of style to this day—a New Yorker cartoon framed in the men’s room of the Clarke Cooke House summarizes the de facto Newport uniform: “You can kill me, but you can’t kill the navy-blue-blazer-and-khaki-pants combo.”
Of course, there’s more to Newport than the WASP splendor airing on Sunday nights on HBO, and the flourishing and diverse culinary scene is one of the coastal town’s many welcome surprises. From inventive Mediterranean offerings to handmade pizza and pasta to farm-sourced greens, downtown Newport is bustling with a plethora of new restaurant openings alongside the continued excellence of many heritage establishments. Yet, unsurprisingly for the sailing capital of the world, seafood remains the most popular cuisine, especially in the summertime when the offerings are freshly caught. And while this is the case in many East Coast resort towns, the Ocean State puts its own signature twist on coastal classics.
Rhode Island clam chowder, for example, has a clearer broth than the creamier New England variety. The Point Judith calamari is the official state appetizer, named for a village on the Rhode Island Sound where the squid is deep-fried and prepared with all the naughtiest ingredients: butter, garlic and hot peppers. A “stuffie” is another Newport favorite, a minced clam served on a quahog shell—just remember to pronounce it “kow haag” when ordering, to sound less like a tourist and more like a local. When in Rome, you know. Lastly, a mudslide is not a natural disaster, but an intentional one if you imbibe too many on the patio at the Black Pearl, and no Rhode Island summer is complete without some Del’s frozen lemonade.
Luckily, we’ve compiled the ultimate guide for the best spots to sample all of the above—and a lobster roll, of course. I’ve been visiting Newport since childhood, and feel well-equipped to advise on where to dine—and what to order—while out on the town. From chic waterfront bistros to seaside clam shacks, read on for your insider’s guide to dining out in Newport, Rhode Island.
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